PostHeaderIcon Editor's Blog


What's up dudes. Welcome to my blog. I'm going to be keeping you all updated on my journey around Southeast Asia. I promise to keep you posted on my goings on, blonde moments (there'll be many), and far out adventures. Please also help keep this site going by sending me a little sugar if you really dig it.
 

PostHeaderIcon Thailand, Bitches!

Well, we did exactly what the guidebooks told us not to do. The Lonely Planet and the Rough Guide to Southeast Asia both "strongly advised against" crossing the Malaysia-Thailand border through the East. However, we weren't able to catch a boat from the Perhentians until noon (due, mostly, to the fact that the earlier boat was at 8am and that seemed like a terrible effort to make). This meant we didn't arrive on the mainland until 1pm.

We strolled over to the bus station and found a bunch of other foreigners waiting for the bus. One person found in their guidebook that the bus to Kota Baru was due to come at 2pm. Another asked in a shop and was told 2:30pm, another person told us 1:30. So we took a taxi with another couple and ended up only paying about $1 more each than we would have taking the bus. Plus the couple we took the taxi with were super cool - they'd already done Thailand, Laos, Cambodia and Vietnam, so it was like having a talking guidebook with us all the way to Kota Baru.

Once we arrived in Kota Baru, we asked at the bus station when the bus to Kuala Perlis (the safest Malaysia-Thailand crossing point) left. They said there were no more that day (it was 2pm by this point). So, we asked if there was a bus to Butterworth? Penang? Lang Kawi? No, no and no. Damn. Ok. But there was a local bus about to leave that was going straight to the Thai border.

So now it was decision time: do we waste a day in this (kind of crappy) small city and take the safe route to Thailand tomorrow? Or do we go completely against our guidebooks' "strong" advice and just go for it? Feeling adventurous and slightly invincible, we picked the latter. We climbed up the bus and asked the man at the front in a robe with a long, pointy grey beard, if this was the bus to Thailand. He confirmed that it was.

"Are we being completely stupid?" Amy asked me.

"No! Not at all!" I said, doing my best to sound completely confident, though I wasn't sure of this at all.

About 45 minutes in, a small Filipina got on the bus and asked in a little voice if this was the bus to Thailand. For some reason, this made me feel relieved - at least we weren't the only foreigners stupid enough to take this route.

We got off the bus not long after and the three of us crossed the border on foot. The passport control staff were super friendly, and stamped all of our passports giving us two full months in Thailand (we'd gotten our visas beforehand in Kuala Lumpur).

There was absolutely no problem crossing the border on the eastern side. I guess the guidebooks must have good reason for their "strong" advice, but I am SO glad we didn't waste a full day and quite a bit more money trying to go the safer route. We were just fine. 

Then we walked quite a long walk to the bus station, and caught a bus to Trang. The Filipina's name is Wang, and she just started working at a resort on Koh Lanta, which just so happens to be the place we were headed to.

At 12am, we arrived in Trang, and soon found ourselves in the nicest $10 hotel I've seen in a while. Clean, private bath, and a nice big bed. The Filipina went to stay at her cousin's house and we forgot to get her contact info. Oh well.

This morning, we caught a minibus to Koh Lanta, which took three hours. We're now staying at a cute little resort on Prae Ae beach on the west coast of Koh Lanta. We really like it here already. Our resort's restaurant serves the best Pad Thai I've had in ages, and there's wifi at a Starbucks knockoff about three minutes' walk away.

We've already got a muay thai class booked for tomorrow, and we're hoping to rent bicycles and explore around.

We have to be on Koh Phagnan by next Wednesday, since you have to arrive two days before the full moon party to keep your hotel reservation. That gives us a week to explore the west coast.

I'm so happy to be in Thailand, I've got like a permanent grin on my face. It's like I've been reunited with a long-lost lover. Everything I've done here has made me so happy. Even just saying "thank you" - Korp kun kah. Even the rain this afternoon made me happy. I love Thailand.

Last Updated ( Wednesday, 26 August 2009 10:19 )

 

PostHeaderIcon The Pretty Perhentians

Yes, they definitely lived up to the hype, these lovely little islands. Amy and I arrived here on Saturday, and we’re quite happy to report that after long, arduous hours in the sun, we’re back to our perfectly bronzed selves again. 
 
kaila in perhentians 

We’re on Long Beach, on Perhentian Kecil – it’s meant to be the funnest part, and I would believe it. It’s got a subdued nightlife (much more so now that it’s Ramadan and the Muslims who already couldn’t drink now can’t eat when the sun is up either).

The thing I like best about these islands is that most everyone is young and on a budget – ie: just like us. There are no families, no retirees (ie. No screaming children or dirty old men) – the backpackers run this island. Oh and amazingly, no hawkers – no one trying to sell us stuff!! No one annoyingly disturbing our beauty roast. It’s pretty cool. Though Amy and I definitely do miss hanging out with the locals.

And the beach is gorgeous. The water is so clear, it looks like it was poured out of a Brita water filter (and feels like a warm bath), and the sand is like flour.
 
perhentian clear water 
The crystal Perhentian waters
 
During the day, it’s hot and clear, and around 5 or 6pm, the monsoon hits and you’d better make damn sure to find some cover. It’s crazy though cuz no matter how clear the day is, the monsoon always comes. The clouds set in and shit all over the island. Though the monsoon usually only lasts for about an hour, last night it just didn’t bother stopping, and kept up all night. 

But now that we’ve accomplished our goal of altering our skin colour, we’ve decided to skip off to Thailand. We’re just so excited for Thai beaches, thai food, thai boxing, thai massages, and Amy is excited for Tai Chi, though I explained to her that it is not THai Chi…that we decided, why wait? It may not be such an easy task to get there though, since it requires us to backtrack to Penang (we didn’t really plan out Malaysia very well…Thailand will be better-planned). This requires us to take a boat to the mainland (about an hour…and it’s a CRAZY ride), then an 8-hour bus ride to Butterworth (near Penang) and then a ferry to Lang Kawi (which is the safest passage to Thailand).

Once in Thailand, we’re going to spend a week playing in the East – Krabi, Koh Phi Phi, Koh Lanta, etc., and then pop over to Phagnan for some Full Moon action. 

Last Updated ( Tuesday, 25 August 2009 01:10 )

 

PostHeaderIcon Perhentian-bound

So since we luuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuurve long-ass bus rides, we've decided to take another one. This time, though, the destination is fruitful - the so-called 'most beautiful islands in the world'. The Perhentian Islands. 

From what we hear, they're 'untouched', but there seems to be a pretty nice nightlife (maybe?), so I dunno how untouched they could really be. I will let you know. There's definitely no ATMs on the islands though, as we've been warned about 20 times.

So today Amy and I attempted to have some adventures, but it didn't work out since our jungle walk was undo-able (my Tevas were stolen in Kuta and I can't hike a jungle in my Aerosoles), and then we attempted to go to a tea plantation but we got there too late and there were no more tours, and all we could do was buy tea. 

On the way back, we broke another one of Amy's 'things I'll never do while I'm traveling' rules: we hitchhiked. Twice. It's so efficient! You get picked up right away, get to sit in comfy seats, and don't have to pay a thing!! What a concept! Sure, there's the possibility that you could get kidnapped and otherwise harmed but this place is pretty safe and we were confident our drivers were harmless.

Then, I made Amy try durian (if you don't know what it is, it's best to Google it, but it's a smelly-yet-delicious and spiky southeast asian treasure of a fruit). She didn't like it.

Also, I'm feeling 100,000,000 percent better. Can't wait to get my tan back. 

Last Updated ( Friday, 21 August 2009 12:27 )

 

PostHeaderIcon What We Got Up To Last Saturday Night

 
 
Let me explain a bit what you're seeing.
 
1) British guy asking a local (mullet man) why Malays bring their hands to their hearts after they shake hands
2) Mullet man yelling indiscriminately into the camera and then telling us he's going to show us something
3) A chat with a 'Francis look-alike' (Amy's friend) 

Last Updated ( Friday, 21 August 2009 02:36 )

 

PostHeaderIcon Yay I Don't Have Swine Flu

Feeling MUCH better today despite Amy's minor freak out yesterday on the bus to Cameron Highlands, when she felt my forehead and realized how crazy high my fever was. She said at one point I actually looked green and joked that she was going to take a picture of me. I told her later that I actually wish she had've! I would totally have posted it on here. How funny is that!?

Lucky for us, my fever broke on the bus, and there is a hospital here. Anyways, I immediately started feeling better when we got off the bus (being on a squeaky, windy bus for 5.5 hours is not ideal when you're sick), and I was even able to eat something (though it was just icecream). Got a good sleep last night and woke up feeling soooooo much better. I am so relieved. 

We're staying at a place called Father's Guesthouse. It's really cute. Lots of young people here - probably cuz it's a budget place and it's 'our pick' in the traveler's Bible (the Lonely Planet). We have communal showers (not as in we all shower together but as in we all share the same shower, at different times) and communal toilets (same thing) - the best part is - there is hot water in the showers and western toilets!! We feel so luxurious.

Cameron Highlands is probably the coldest place I've been to since I arrived in Southeast Asia (it's been almost four months now!!). The temperatures are in the low 20s!! I may have to buy a fleece. Haha. Seriously though.

I'm going to have to take it easy today, but I'm looking forward to my full health tomorrow so I can go on a jungle trek (sounds exciting!!).

Well take care friends and don't get swine flu. 

 

 

PostHeaderIcon I'b Siiiiick

Sorry guys for the lack of writing. It seems that I've caught H1N1 or some other equally debilitating illness (it's not really H1N1). Yesterday I slept about 20 hours...more than I've ever slept in my life, and today I'm feeling about 50 percent better, so Amy and I have decided to go down to the Cameron Highlands. It may seem crazy to travel when I'm sick but I just don't feel like doing nothing all day again. 

Amy had a version of what I've got last week and she was mostly better within two days, so I'm really looking forward to tomorrow when I will hopefully feel much better. 

 

PostHeaderIcon Penang Adventures

Well we decided to leave KL on Friday and head up to Penang. There was meant to be a 4pm bus but it was canceled (or something) so the next one was scheduled for 5:30pm (we had gotten there for 3:15pm). So we waited. Then it started monsooning, and the bus didn't actually arrive until 7pm. And it was a 6-hour bus ride. But anyways, we made it.

We stayed that night with this guy named Ang. Super nice guy, but his roommates were a bit sketchy and once we had settled in, he informed us that there were two baby rats living in our bedroom.

"But don't worry," he reassured us, "they're nice rats."

Oh good.

We left the next morning. Now we're staying with a really lovely couple - Bella and Wendy (Wendy is the guy's name). So far we've only met Bella because Wendy has been in Thailand. Bella is the sweetest girl ever, and we were shocked to discover she's only 21!! She's 8 months pregnant and her and Wendy just got married in April. She seems like a really free spirit. Yesterday she took us for lunch, and then we went shopping, and then finally to a beach called Batu Ferringi to watch the sunset.

Last night, we decided to check out the Penang nightlife. We ended up being invited to sit with this group of local guys who looked like they might have been in the mafia, but when I asked them directly: "excuse me, are you in the mafia?" they said no. But I guess they would say that, wouldn't they?

We wound up making friends with some fellow travelers - two British guys and a girl from West Virginia. We all went to this local club named Soho and danced until we were absolutely drenched from humidity and sweat (Hooooot).

When Amy and I went to get a cab home, we weren't surprised that the taxi drivers tried to rip us off - this is a normal occurrence. But we were shocked to find that two out of the three taxi drivers who offered us rides were drunk!! I've never encountered this before, but it seems to be common in Penang, cuz the night before we were offered a ride from a taxi driver who seemed to be on crack or something.

We managed to find one who was sober, and he kindly didn't rip us off too badly.

Tonight we're going to see some Chinese opera and take in some culture (since I don't really think drinking Danish beer -Skol - and hanging out with the local mafia counts as culture).  

 

PostHeaderIcon Smumidity

smumidity
Kaila and smumidity.
 
Amy and I have coined a new term. It’s called ‘smumidity,’ and it refers to the combination of smog and humidity, which makes it feel like you’re walking in a moist, putrid cloud. That’s what KL is like. I’ve never experienced such thick humidity in my life, and its combination with practically corrosive pollution – well, to say it’s worthy of a new word is an understatement.

The newspapers call it ‘haze’. Hah. It’s a huge problem, and they’re in talks with Indonesia to create some sort of solution for it (what Indonesia can do about it, I have no idea – they’ve got their own problems). Pollution is an insane problem all over Southeast Asia, and Kuala Lumpur is no exception: the rivers look like raw sewage and the ground is covered with plastic litter. From a street view, they don’t seem to be doing anything to reduce this problem – plastic bags are handed out for absolutely everything – at one coffee shop, they even tried to put our takeaway coffee in a plastic bag!

So, the smumidity breeds. It manages to seep into the pores of your skin, so that when you sweat, you sweat pollution, creating a filmy smumidity layer all over your body. And you sweat a lot when it’s 35 degrees in the shade plus humidity. It’s like having a polluted sweat shower. Really, really sexy.

Then you see women walking around in black burqas and long dresses with veils, and you think what a big, massive whiner you are – they must be dying!! Or maybe they have AC in there? Sorry is that culturally-insensitive? I’m just saying…it would be pretty sweet.

It sure makes me appreciate my fresh aired, clear-skied beach towns that much more…

 

PostHeaderIcon Amy's Top Indonesia Moments

Guest post: Amy Jennermann 
 
amy is cool 
 
Well—it’s been exactly a month since I left BC on my journey—and figured it’s about time for a catch up.  Instead of going through where I’ve been—I figured a “Top experiences” for every country could be a fun way of catching up-- For a more in-depth view at what I’ve been up to, check out Kaila’s blog (you're on it).

Top Indonesia experiences:

1. Sweet home Kuta Lombok:  NOT Kuta-Bali. Kuta Lombok is a bit of a dive of a town, but close to the most amazing beaches ever.  We fell in love with the town, and the town fell in love with us.  On the first day we met a bunch of the local women, who we started teaching daily pilates on the beach to—and by the second day we couldn’t go anywhere without people yelling out or names and stopping to say hi.  We had originally only planned on staying for 3 nights, but ended up staying 6 nights- the longest we could before our visas expired.  Our last night in Kuta we threw ourselves a good-bye party where at least 30 of the locals and other travelers we met came- I miss ‘sweet home Kuta Lombok’ and all of the amazing people we met there with all of my heart.  

2. Night ‘2 of 4’ on our Flores/komodo boat tour:  The night I honestly thought I was going to die.  Think HUGE waves, sketchy boat.  I vomited overboard 5 times while Kaila demanded that we have our life vests.  I don’t know what was worse- the fact that I was so sick- the thought of capsizing at 2 am and being another ‘Indonesian ferry sinking story” or the fact that I was so tired, frightened and dirty that it didn’t even phase me to try and sleep with vomit in my hair.  The next day was the icing on the cake- when Kaila and I found out that the other boat with us was sending SOS signals to our boat, while its crew members were also vomiting overboard.  FUN.

3. Budihamster “B-ham”: Some random guy we met in Sengiggi, who creepily fell in love with us.  I don’t think he could decide who he wanted to be with… Kaila or me…We made it easy for him and both ditched him.  Think desperate—more than desperate.  Text word for word:  “It’s very difficult- many poison, can’t enjoy.  I just think of you, miss to be with you.  I don’t know how we can be.”… He REALLY wanted our citizenship…

4. The monkey that stole my sunglasses… Animals and me…

5. Being stared at… constantly… Having locals ask to take pictures with you—we are giant, slutty (because we show our shoulders), walking ATM machines.

6. The children at the beach in Sengiggi: We ventured “over the hill” to a nontouristy part of Sengigi where we were surrounded by a bunch of local children wanting to play and swim with us- they were absolutely NUTS—but so adoreable- we played with the kids for a while, and as their parents called them in for dinner the held our hands to their head- which is a huge form of respect in their culture. It gave me goosebumps.  It’s so unfair how children over here live in such poverty- but amazing to see their resiliency and ability to find joy in life.

7. Satri: We took a cooking class from the CUTEST Balinese woman in Ubud from a ‘hole in the wall’ style of restaurant.  She was such an amazing chef, teacher, and generous person.  If you are ever in Ubud you MUST visit Satri.

8. Renting ‘Justin’- our jeep to venture around Bali: CRAZY Balinese drivers (and on the ‘wrong side of the road’ too)… I was just the passenger- but Kaila maneuvered the roads SO well and kept us alive!

9. Ka-my:  Kaila and I have now become the same person.  It is too crazy, but we have noticed that we think most of the same thoughts at the same time… want to eat the same things…and do many of the same things.  The only thing that is different is our taste in men—which works out for the best!  Traveling together is working out wonderfully- and I couldn’t have asked for a better travel buddy!

Last Updated ( Wednesday, 12 August 2009 02:44 )

 

PostHeaderIcon Does it Matter if You’re Black or White?

asian to white 
I realize this picture doesn't make much sense cuz both chicks have ridiculously white skin and one is Asian, not black, but it was one of the first images that came up when I searched for pics of skin whitening cream and it made me giggle. 
 
 
Michael seemed to think it didn’t…or did he? People love to say they don’t see skin colour, that it doesn’t matter at all. But let’s be honest here, skin colour is a huge deal in all parts of the world. 

Over here, in Southeast Asia, the locals have shelves and shelves of skin whitening creams and lotions to choose from. They slather the bleaching creams on their skin, which they always deem too dark, no matter how light it is, and pray they will wake up the colour of Nicole Kidman. 

In Southeast Asia, they explain, if your skin is dark, it’s a sign that you are a labourer, or from a family of labourers, and are therefore lower on the social ladder. This notion integrates itself into the conception of beauty, so that ‘fairness’ has become synonymous with beauty. 

Even men now have whitening lotions, under the guise of ‘brightening cream’. 

The poorest women compromise by coating their faces with baby powder. The effect is a grainy, incredibly obvious white mask that fools absolutely no one, but somehow gives them more confidence to face the world.

For our part, us white people who come to Southeast Asia are the first to strip down to our bikinis and run to the beach, to capture that bronzed glow. We get excited when our skin achieves a nicely toasted colour, and boastfully show off the change in colour between our tan lines. Our darkened colour is something to be proud of when we return to our home countries, since it is an obvious indication that we’ve been on vacation when everyone else has been working in the cold – a sure way to make our friends jealous.

Meanwhile, Asians look on in confusion. Here we are, with the naturally white skin that they so desire, and all we want to do is darken it. They prefer to avoid the sun, walking around with sun umbrellas, and sitting under the shade at the beach. In many parts of Southeast Asia, the girls are kept indoors much of the time, so that they will avoid the chance having the sun’s vengeful rays crisping up their skin, and have a better chance of marrying a good husband.

Now, I’m not going to be totally lame and ask why can’t we all just be happy with our skin colour? I actually don’t think it’s a big deal that people want to change their skin colour. I prefer to be darker than my natural skin colour. So, I tan (safely, of course). Asians prefer to have whiter skin, so, they stay out of the sun and buy whitening lotion. I think it’s actually pretty cool that we’re able to alter the colour of our skin to the tone that we desire. 

What I do have to point out though, is that we must do this within reason. White people that look like they’ve spent a week in a tanning booth look ridiculous. Asians with faces so white that it looks like they’re wearing a mask look equally ridiculous. And let’s cool it with the baby powder and the orange-coloured tanning lotion. 

Sure, alter your skin colour, if you like. But do it within reason, so you don’t look like you just stepped out of the circus. 
 

Last Updated ( Tuesday, 11 August 2009 11:34 )

 
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