Editor's Blog

Editor's Blog

Arrived: Bangkok

Well, well, look who survived the 16 hour bus ride to Bangkok!! We did! We did! It wasn't actually all that bad if you take away the knees jarred into the seat infront of us, the bumpy roads, and the fact that we were dropped off in the middle of Bangkok at 5:16am without a clue where we were.

We figured it out, though, like we always do, and we've now checked into a hotel, showered, dropped off our laundry, and eaten breakfast - all before 10am!

Apparently you're meant to have a really good "first night in Bangkok" story, but I doubt either of us will be up for much tonight. I don't think I slept at all last night, and though I feel fine now, it'll probably hit me later.

So far, I don't hate Bangkok. Granted, I haven't seen much of it, and what I did see, I saw when most of the city was still sleeping, but so far, so good.

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"Where-The-Beach-Was-Filmed" Island

Having spent a memorable few days chilling in Railay, Amy and I are now on Koh Phi Phi – the place so famously known as “where The Beach was filmed.” It’s neat being here – we’ve only seen the town so far, but today I’m going to explore the rest of the island to see if it’s really all that.

Last night we even caught a screening of The Beach at a bar near our bungalow. I hadn’t seen it in ages and I loved it just as I did the first time. It was so weird watching it, and knowing that I’m in the very place this “paradise island” is located. It’s also peculiar because in the movie, “The Beach” is located on the other side of Thailand, right near Koh Phagnan (called the Southern Gulf Coast, whereas Phi Phi is actually in the West on the Andaman Coast,) and on top of that, the movie’s Koh Phagnan is a bustling city where they go for supplies – I guess they could have been in Haad Rin, but even then, it’s not a busy city, just a party-goer village. I also remember reading that the actual inspiration for the beach in Alex Garland’s original book (you know, before Leo stole the show) was near the Philippines’ Palawan Island. Go figure.

Amy has found herself covered in what appears to be a sun/heat rash, and has decided to give her body a break from the daylight. She’ll be staying indoors today, and I’ll be making amazing movies with my very professional photojournalistic skills for her to view as if she were there in person.

It’s a bit pricey to get to Phi Phi Island – 400 baht just for an hour-and-a-half boat ride (that’s about $11…but trust me, in baht, it’s a lot). But we managed to find a bungalow for 300 baht, which is much cheaper than anything the Lonely Planet recommends.

We’re gonna hop on a boat/bus to Bangkok this evening, since it’s not much fun for Amy to be on an island when she has to stay out of the sun. It’s only 600 baht to get all the way from here to Khao San Road, Bangkok!! Imagine that. It’s an overnight bus (ugh and the seats don’t even fully recline) and we arrive at 7am.

Now, the last time I went to Bangkok, I hated it. Absolutely and totally loathed the place. It was the first city I’ve ever wanted to leave with such passion. But. I’m willing to give it another chance. In fact, I’m going to do my very best to like Bangkok. I’ve heard so many different things about it – crazy stories, people who love it, people who hate it. Everyone agrees it’s one of the world’s more chaotic cities. So this time I’m going to try to go to all the right places – starting with Khao San Road – and truly taste the real Bangkok. I’m excited.

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Last Updated ( Friday, 18 September 2009 03:00 )

Really Like Railay

Well we’re in Railay now. We’re staying at a beach called Ton Sai – which is where all the backpackers stay cuz it’s cheap. It’s sooooo pretty here. It’s our favourite place we’ve been since Kuta, Lombok.

The limestone cliffs tower out of the water just like on the postcards. The sunsets are a dramatic blood red, and the people are amazingly kind.

We were originally just going to stay here three nights, but we’ve now decided on four, five, or maybe even six. Phi Phi can wait.

The weather gods have been pretty good to us, but right now it’s pissing down rain. Also the internet is 3 baht per minute, so I can’t take too long. And I can’t find wifi anywhere. But otherwise, this place is perfection!

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Koh Samui VS. Koh Phagnan

I saw this T-shirt the other day that had a cartoon of a dog and a man in a boat together. Silly them, they were both paddling in opposite directions. One way was to Phagnan, and the other was to Samui. That is kind of how you feel when you’re here though.

The two islands offer very different atmospheres, that appeal to different people (or just different moods).

Samui is fun – there’s shopping galore, tons of people, and an intense, pulsing (if slightly raunchy) nightlife.

Phagnan, on the other hand, is a serene beauty. The beaches are quiet (except Haad Rin, where the full moon party takes place), the bars are subdued, and there’s not much to do other than read and laze around.

In my opinion, the ideal holiday is to combine the two islands. Get your partying and shopping done on Samui, and then head to Phagnan for some R&R.

That said, the full moon party – which is, quite possibly, the biggest and most insane party you’ll ever attend – does take place on Phagnan. For the very hardcore partiers, there’s also a half-moon party, a black moon party, and I’ve even heard tell of an “Ample moon” party. Just about any phase of the moon is excuse for a party.

There are boats that go back and forth between Phagnan and Samui many times a day – at a cost of about $10. There are even party boats that go from Samui to Phagnan just for the night and return you the next morning, so that you don’t have to bother booking accommodation on Phagnan – something that can be a pain in the ass around the full moon party since most accommodations require you to stay a minimum of four days if your stay falls upon an FMP.

Many people choose Samui simply due to convenience - the roads are all paved (which cannot be said about Phagnan), there is a plethora of accomodation to choose from, it's incredibly tourist-friendly, and, most appealing of all, there is an airport on the north east corner of the island.

If I had to pick which island I liked best, I wouldn’t be able to. They both appeal to different parts of me – so I am content to bounce back and forth between the two.

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Last Updated ( Saturday, 12 September 2009 06:29 )

One Night in Chaweng

It all started at Rock Bar. Rock Bar is a hip, chilled out place where locals and tourists in the know go to drink good beer, listen to good reggae, and watch amazing fire shows. Amy and I went there last night as a pre-Chaweng warm up. Chaweng, you see, is the crazy part of town – the Las Vegas of Samui. You can’t go there before midnight.

We got to talking to the bartenders at Rock Bar, who seemed to be very sweet boys. When we told them we were going to Chaweng, one of them, Dia, asked if we could give him a ride (Amy and I both had motorbikes) because he lives in Chaweng. He also said that he would like to come out to the club.

So we hop on our bikes – he’s driving mine cuz mine’s a manual and I barely feel confident enough just driving myself, let alone another human being. We head for Chaweng.

On the way, he mentions that often, Thai boys aren’t allowed into the Green Mango (the club we were headed to). But I tell him that we would try to help him get in by vouching for him and saying he was with us.

Happily, they did let him in. We danced – well, Amy and I danced while Dia kind of sat and bumped his head around awkwardly – until the club closed at 3am.

Not ready to go home (well not me, anyways, Amy was falling asleep standing up), we headed over to another bar. I turn to Amy and kind of shook her awake and tell her I’m ok for her to go home. It’s just one straight road basically to get back home, so I knew she would be fine. And she was.

But as soon as she leaves, Dia takes my hand and leads me on to the dance floor. I didn’t want to give him the wrong impression because I was really not interested in him, so I tell him I’m going to go walk around and come back.

I wound up chatting with a very gorgeous British boy who had just arrived in Thailand six hours prior with his twin brother and cousin. We really hit it off, and decided to go for a walk on the beach, and then Dia comes over and says it’s time to go.

“Um, ok, but you live in Chaweng,” I say, hoping he’ll get the hint. But of course, he does not.

“You drive me home,” he says. Cheeky boy! I think, but I oblige because he says it’s only two blocks away.

So there’s me, sandwiched on my bike between Dia (who’s driving) and British boy (silly me, can’t remember his name). Dia turns to me and says “You told me you would drive me to Rock Bar.”

“Um, no I didn’t, Dia. You said you lived in Chaweng.”

The conversation goes on like this for a bit, all the while, Dia is driving a little bit wobbly, and British boy is shitting himself on the back.

“You scared man!?” Dia asks British boy.

“Dia stop acting so weird,” I say. I’m getting quite pissed off at this point.

I have a little chat with British boy and ask him if it’s cool if we drive Dia back to Rock Bar (which is about 20 minutes away) and then come back to Chaweng. I think to myself that this will make Dia stop acting so crazy. Dia, meanwhile, is saying threatening things to British boy and I’m yelling at him (Dia), telling him to stop being such a crazy douche bag. British boy says it’s cool, but then Dia has trouble keeping the bike stable with three people on it. So British boy asks to get off. I tell Dia to pull over, and let British boy off.

Then British boy stands at the side of the road, saying that he can’t just let me go with this crazy guy on my own. “Yeah, but this is my bike,” I say. Then, bless his heart, he offers to go on the bike with Dia to take Dia back to Rock Bar.

Obviously, Dia will have NONE of that.

It goes on like this, with us stopping and starting and letting British boy on and off, about three times. Finally, British boy decides that he’s going to walk back (we’ve now taken him about 5km from his resort in Chaweng).

I tell him that I will go and drop Dia off, and come back to pick him up.

So, we part ways. Now, it’s just me and Dia. The whole way back, Dia and I are screaming at each other. He’s telling me that I told him I would drive him back to Lamai (not true at all), and that I led him on (also not true at all), and not to screw around with Thais. I blew my lid. I was so sick of being threatened and I was like, “You think I’m scared of you? You want to do something? Go ahead! Do it right now! I know you’re not going to. You think I’m just another dumb farang (foreigner) who you can fuck around with, but I tell you something buddy you messed with the WRONG girl.”

And so on.

Oh meanwhile, he’s still driving MY bike. So suddenly he’s like, “You wanna go back to Chaweng? I’ll take you back to Chaweng!”

I’m like, “Oh great, you could have done that like 20 minutes ago before we left my new friend at the side of the road at 4am.”

So he turns the bike around and speeds back to Chaweng. He tells me that he can stay with his friend. He might have mentioned that before.

Oh but the story doesn’t end there.

We get to his friends’ place in Chaweng, and he looks at me and says that my bike key is gone.

“What do you mean my bike key is gone?” I ask.

“Sometimes, it fall out.”

“How were you DRIVING without a key!?” I ask.

“Don’t need key to drive.”

Well obviously, we have to go back and look for the key. I’m skeptical that he’s hidden it in his pockets, but he promises me he didn’t. So we go all the way back to Lamai (where I am staying, and where Rock Bar is - about 10k from Chaweng) looking for the key. Of course, we don’t find it.

He keeps going on about how foreign girls are so crazy and he’s such and angel and peace and love and all kinds of other bull shit, and at this point, I’m so sick of arguing and yelling that I just stop responding. I’m tired. It’s 5am, and there’s no key in sight.

We get to New Hut, and I tell him he can take a taxi from there cuz there is no WAY I’m wasting my gas driving him back to Rock Bar.

Of course, I’m not evil so I make sure he has a taxi (even though I’m FUMING) before I leave him on the side of the road. At this point, it’s too late to go back for British boy, so I retire to my hut.

Amy had been calling me all the while to make sure I was ok, so she was up and freaking out when I got back. I recount (quite loudly, she tells me this morning) the whole story to her. She laughs and gapes incredulously.

“He seemed like such a nice guy!” she says. And it’s true – he did. “Guess we can’t go back to Rock Bar now,” she adds. Guess not.

We finally fall asleep as the sun came up.

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Last Updated ( Wednesday, 09 September 2009 07:45 )

A Rant...of Sorts

I always say "hi" to people when I pass them. Maybe it's the Canadian in me. I've always done it, and I always will. I'm ok with the fact that many people don't make a practice of being quite so friendly. I accept that. What I don't understand is when I pass people and say hello to them, and they don't say ANYTHING back. It's like, um, I'm not saying hi to Amy - obviously we know each other and are walking together and it would be silly to say Hi in the middle of a conversation. That would be completely retarded. So obviously I'm talking to YOU and you are not responding and therefore I think that you are a complete DOUCHE bag. Even though I'm sure you're actually NOT a complete douche bag, but actually a very nice person who unfortunately forgot to pack their manners in their travel bags. It's like, supposed to be a global village, right? So what's up with people not saying hello?? When did we lose that?

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Last Updated ( Sunday, 06 September 2009 16:24 )

Epic Full Moon Party

I guess that’s what happens when you get 10,000 people on one beach (no way were there 30,000), fuel them with buckets of alcohol and music that reverberates through their young, nimble spines: it’s pretty much a guaranteed good time.

Though none of us got too stupidly drunk, there are still parts of the night that are more blurry than others. So, I’m going to write how my memory beholds the night.

18:10 – Amy and I get ready. I paint my stomach with fluorescent red body paint. Then I decide that since I’d lost my flip flops at Haad Rin beach the night before, I won’t bother wearing any shoes tonight. Instead, I put duct tape on the bottoms of my feet. Amy and I both agree this is an ingenius move.

19:00 – Everyone crowds into the taxi/bus/jeep vehicle that whisks us away to Haad Rin beach. We all sing “I Gotta Feeling”.

21:00 – Meet up with Marleen and her ex-boyfriend Hans; go for dinner. I call my Mom and wish her a happy birthday.

21:20 – Marleen realizes that she’s wearing a thong with a dress and worries this will make for indecent exposure on the dance floor. Amy suggests buying disposable underwear. I go into a pharmacy and ask the salesboy if they sell disposable underwear. The look on his face is priceless. Marleen compromises and buys shorts.

21:30 – We meander down to the beach. There are many people and many buckets and the music is getting louder. We buy “fucking cheap buckets” and dance, dance, dance.

22:00 – We wander down the beach and climb a big white net ladder and slide down a big slide into a pile of sand bags.

22:30 - 12:52 – Crazy dancing times; the bartenders keep giving us free drinks.

12:52 – Text from Amy: “Hey. We lost you. Meet you at the lights whenever you can. We miss you.” I’m chatting/dancing with a cute boy from LA.

1:06 – Text from Amy: “Hey lady. We are right outside the big white giant structure near drop in bar. Come find us or we will see you at 2 at the weeting spot.”

1:35 – Text from Amy: “See you at the bar with the any whe lover me.” (what she meant to say was “with the boy who loves me”)

2ish – Marleen and Hans go home. Amy is very drunk, and so am I. We finally meet up again and continue the dancing amongst the hoards and hoards of sweaty, fluorescent paint-covered bodies.

3ish (I think) – I lose my hat (you know, the one I ALWAYS wear). I freak out and abruptly leave the random guy I’m chatting with to look for it. Amy locates it on the head of some guy on the dance floor. I give her a big kiss and dance around a lot.

3:25 – Text from Mo (guy we met at New Hut on Samui): “Where the fuck are you mo!” (I didn’t get it until the next day though…we later found out that he was dancing around wearing a Hitler mask! It’s funnier because he’s German).

4-6 – More crazy dancing. I am dancing sandwiched between two cute twins. Life is good. There is a naked man dancing on the bleachers. I take a video.

6:10 – We are hungry. We go in search of food and find it.

6:30 – More dancing. The sun is coming up and shining its revealing light on the disgusting mess that is Haad Rin beach.

7:05 – Amy and I start picking up the masses and masses of straws that are covering the beach. We hardly make a dent, but at least we’re trying. Two other people join us in our efforts, but that’s it. There are still lots of people on the beach.

There's always one...

7:30 – A bartender gives Amy a big hug and a free water for helping out. We go get breakfast. Some random guy with an accent comes and sits with us, and makes us guess what nationality he is. He’s Argentinian.

7:45 – The alcohol has now (mostly) worn off, and I realize that I have completely, and totally, fucked up my ankle (excuse the language but that is just the only word to describe it). I am limping. I have no shoes. The duct tape is gone. Maybe that wasn’t such a good idea to not wear any shoes.

8:05 – The taxi ride back to the resort is pretty awful. The roads aren’t so bad, but we’re all jammed into the back of a truck and bumping our heads and we’re soooo tired.

9:00 – We stumble out of the taxi at our resort and Amy and I fall into bed like it’s a vat of ice cream and we’re starving children.

13:30 – I wake up to Amy doing laundry in the sink. She’s a nutter sometimes.

13:35 - I look over our pictures from the FMP on my camera. Amy and I try to piece together the night and laugh our asses off at naked dancing man. Amy tapes up my ankle using her impeccable wilderness survival skills.

14:00 – We find our way to the resort restaurant and all the staff laugh at my limping self.

16:00 – We leave one restaurant for another. We eat, sleep and read our way through the rest of the day. I wonder if I should get a cane or crutches, but I’ll deal with it tomorrow.

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Last Updated ( Saturday, 05 September 2009 15:10 )

It's All About the People

Amy with a few of our new friends from New Hut in Samui

Well we’re nearing the climax of our full moon party pilgrimage. We spent three days on Koh Samui, and now we’ve crossed the water to Phangan.

We had a fantastic time on Samui. We had a great night out on Sunday night (the nightlife is fabulous in Chaweng), where we danced until far past Amy’s bed time. Then yesterday we met some very interesting people staying at New Hut, and we ended up all crowding in to one guy’s truck, who drove a big group of us to Rock Bar – a bar where the locals hang out, which is built around the rock that looks like a penis (or cock rock, as I call it affectionately).

First, there was Annakin (like Skywalker), the 35-year-old from Australia, who was creepy as hell and hit on every girl in sight, and then complained to anyone who would listen how sexually frustrated he was. Oh and he was staying in the hut next to ours. And he was creepy.

Then there was Marleen, the lovely Dutch girl who just arrived yesterday from Chang Mai. She’s a social worker in Holland, and she’s also doing the FMP trek so we’re probably going to hook up with her on Friday.

We also met two guys named Paul – both from Gurnesy, a tiny island between England and Spain (and they weren’t even traveling together - what are the chances, hey??). They were very cool guys who gave us some great tips on Samui life, including how to say crazy mo-fo in Thai (it’s ting tong baa).

There was also Mo, a ting tong German guy who got a swirly tattoo on his finger that he can hold up to his face and pretend is a mustache, or bend his finger so that it forms the shape of an M. He’s coming to the full moon party as well.

Then there was Adam – poor guy – who had the worst day of his life yesterday. First, his fiancée of two years dumped him in the morning. Then he couldn’t find his bank card (he wondered if perhaps his newly exed girlfriend may have pocketed it). Then, he lost his bike key so he couldn’t go anywhere. And since he didn’t have any money, he had to sleep on the beach. But he seemed to enjoy himself last night, so that’s good.

We also met some members of the Hungarian mafia, one of whom kindly gave me a ride back to my hut.

There were some incredible fire dancers – one of whom twirled big balls of fire from his teeth. Amy made friends with one of them and I think they got on quite well.

This morning we had some time to kill between check out and our bus/boat to Phagnan, so I hopped into a kayak with one of the Pauls. I was quite hung over so I wasn’t really paying attention to where we were going, and next thing I know, we’re quite far from land and Paul’s too tired to paddle anymore. I’m a terrible paddler, but I tried anyways. It didn’t do much good. And then we capsized, like three times. Finally, I looked at my watch and realized that if I didn’t get to land soon, I’d miss my bus. I decided to try to swim to shore. Paul threw me a life vest, and tried to get me back into the kayak, but I was determined to swim. Finally, two kind men on a jet ski picked me up and dragged our boat, and Paul, in to shore. I was sooo exhausted and dehydrated by the time I got back to New Hut, and quite sun burnt as well. Anyways, it was an adventure.

So tonight was definitely a quiet one. We haven’t seen Had Salad (the beach we’re staying at) in the day time yet, but from what I’ve seen at night, it’s absolutely gorgeous. I’m so happy to be back on Phagnan.

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The Full Moon Party Pilgrimage

(written yesterday on the bus)

We’re sitting on a bus to Koh Samui. We decided this morning at the last minute to make the trip across the south of Thailand – the clouds and rain were getting us down and we heard tell that the rains may pass by next week on the West coast.

On the East coast, however, the monsoon doesn’t tend to hit until November. So we thought, since we have to head to the East anyways for the Full Moon Party, why not go a little early, and stay on Samui for a few days?

So here we are, and the bus we’re traveling on is packed with excited travelers like ourselves (most of them, ominously, couples). No doubt Koh Samui will be packed with Full Moon-bound backpackers on the same wave length as ourselves.

We definitely want to head back to the West coast after the full moon party. It’s a bit of backtracking, we are well aware, but it just kind of makes sense. Of course, if we could have moved the date of the FMP backwards or forwards to fit our schedule, that would have been even more ideal, but this is simply the way it is.

The FMP, by the way, is this upcoming Friday, on September 4th (my beautiful mother’s birthday), and you can expect a full report, and probably many inebriated movies, to appear on this blog not too long thereafter.

We stayed in Krabi town last night, and were a bit disappointed because we’d heard that Krabi is meant to be so beautiful. However, we got slightly confused between Krabi province and Krabi town. Krabi town is nothing but a bunch of buildings and shops and a passable night market. Krabi province, however, contains many beautiful places like Railay (where you can go rock climbing and kayaking in some of the most beautiful cliffs and lagoons in the world), Koh Lanta, Koh Phi Phi, and Ao Ngan. Once we figured that out, it made so much more sense. So when we come back, we’ll skip Krabi town and head straight for Railay.

But back to the FMP pilgrimage. The full moon party is a sort of must-do on any Southeast Asia backpacker’s list, right up there with Angkor Wat (I read this recently in a Southeast Asia backpacker’s magazine – which was, of course, free). I, myself, have been to an FMP before, and I did very much enjoy myself. It was two years ago though, and I’m interested to see how it’s changed. A guy we spoke to last night said that he went to a black moon party (I guess this is when there is no moon?), and they charged him an entry fee!! So I’m wondering if there will be a cover charge to get into the full moon party, but then he also pointed out that nothing’s stopping you from swimming into the beach…good point. Is it worth saving the $5? I think maybe.

I also read a crazy statistic in this same backpacker’s magazine that the number of crazy ravers on Had Rin beach (where the full moon party is held) has climbed to 30,000 (when I went is was a measley 10,000). It will be interesting to see what happens if the weather doesn’t hold out. Will 30,000 people be able to fit under the meager shelter that Had Rin has to offer? Or will everyone just relish the rain and dance around like it’s the best thing that could have happened?

If you think about the idea of the full moon party, it’s pretty crazy. I mean, there’s a full moon every month. That’s a lot of crazy parties. And I’ve seen what Had Rin looks like the morning after – not a pretty site. Also the fact that it was started by a small group of intrepid travelers 30 years ago, and it has just grown and grown and grown ever since – to the point where now you have to arrive on Phagnan a minimum of two days before the party and cannot get accommodation for less than four days if there is an FMP during the time you are there. It’s becoming an institution on Phagnan. But then, if you’ve ever seen the roads on Phagnan, you’d understand that that’s pretty much the only institution it will ever have going on.

(present time)

We're staying in Lamai on Koh Samui in a resort called New Hut. And it seems to be pretty true to its name, the huts are pretty new-looking. They're really cute, if slightly too small, but they're right on the beach and only 350 bhat per night (guess that's about $10 USD), and there's a good (though quite loud at 3am) crowd there.

Last night, we saw the best live band either of us had ever seen. Amy thought the lead singer was a woman, and hitting on her, until she realized it was a gay man. But holy crap could that little gay man sing. He was so incredible that at one point all the men in the bar (and these were straight men) broke into dance and were all dancing together on the dance floor and on tables. It was one of the most random things we'd ever seen - like out of a music video or something.

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Pretty F'in Hardcore in Koh Lanta

So I dunno if it's all the Thai iced coffees I've been drinking or what, but I've done more physical activity over the past three days than I've done on my whole entire trip. I feel pretty pumped about it.

The first night we were here, it definitely WAS the iced coffees - I'd had three of them and they are strong. I went for a beach run and then a long walk.

The next day, Amy and I rented bicycles (like the kind you have to peddle) and went for a bit of a ride. Then in the afternoon, we had a Muay Thai lesson! It was awesome we trained with a world champion. Amy decided she's a lover, not a fighter, but she still gets the award for picture of the month with this one:

amy kicks ass
Amy pointed out, and I didn't disagree, that she kind of looks like she has a disability in this picture

Unfortunately, I did a bit of damage to my toe on a push kick, where I didn't so much push, but smush. Oh well, it's pretty much healed today.

We each had our own trainer, and they definitely kicked our butts in gear.

Kaila kickin ass
I'd like to let you believe that I made that slice in the side of the bag with my knife-like power kick

Then today, we took our bikes down the island to a cave that came highly recommended by the Lonely Planet.

It was pretty freaking cool – some very tough and challenging climbing and descending and even crawling. We were humming the Indiana Jones theme song the whole time.

Kaila Croft and Amdiana Jones
Yup, we hardcore

We're thinking about heading to Phi Phi tomorrow, but I have to say, the clouds are getting a bit annoying. Apparently on the west coast (where Phagnan is), it's not as rainy.

Koh Lanta is pretty small, and we just learned that Phi Phi is even smaller. A woman we talked to last night told us that this is the quietest rainy season they've seen on Koh Lanta in 10 years. Guess it must be because of the recession. But yeah, there's not a whole lot goin on here.

Don't get me wrong though! Still totally in love with Thailand.

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Last Updated ( Friday, 28 August 2009 10:54 )

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